Terezin (July 10)

I have been intrigued by the camp/ghetto of Terezin (Theresienstadt in German) for some time.  This was a place like no other.  Founded as a military city in the late 1700s as defense against the Prussians and named for the Austrian Princess Maria Theresa (the "Grandmother of Europe"), the Nazis expelled the local population and brought the first transport to Terezin in November of 1941.

The Small Fortress was used (for the most part) for political prisoners, and life was brutal.  It was almost like an execution camp.  Of the 32,000 prisoners to pass through the Small Fortress, 1,500 were Jewish.  Our guide, Petra, was excellent.  She led us through the buildings and calmly explained the horror that had transpired.

When we went to the Museum in the main fortress city, I was quite surprised to find that the whole place is not a memorial/museum.  Some of the buildings were stores and homes.  I wasn't sure what to make of this.  I'm still sure what to make of this....

Terezin was the only camp/ghetto.  Families were resettled to Terezin, many from Prague, but Terezin was also a transit camp, a stopover before being sent on to Auschwitz and other killing centers.  Also unique to Terezin was the rich cultural life.  The art and poetry that was created here is amazing.  Such talent.  Such a waste.  In the museum housed in the Magdeburg Barracks, I was drawn to the many dolls that the children had created.  The dolls seemed to have a life of their own, almost as if they were carrying on the lives of their creators.

In June of 1944, the Red Cross inspected the camp/ghetto.  It was great propaganda for the Nazis.  They could show off their "model" camp.  Before the visit, many were deported from Terezin.  The streets were beautified:  buildings were painted, flowers were planted, a playground set up, etc.  As soon as the Red Cross left, everything went back to the way it had been.